Sunday, December 05, 2010

Surfing for life...

I saw this amazing movie called SURFING FOR LIFE. It is about a group of wonderful people who are still surfing in their 70's, 80's and 90's. I was especially smitten by Eve Fletcher who at 30 took up surfing and, in over 50 years, has not stopped!



This movie confirmed that I am the laziest person on earth and should be ashamed. These older folks are crazy cool. So what do you think the first thing I did after watching it? Well, I sat at my computer for the next hour or so "Surfing" the web for information on Eve.



She is 83 years old and is one of the oldest women still surfing. Her favorite spot is San Onofre, the home of more surfers over 70 than any other beach in the world.
Says Eve: "I plan to surf till I drop. You are never too old to be stoked!"



Eve surfing on a cold Christmas day in a white mohair sweater "...for a little bit of warmth. It was too good a day not to go out!" Really, because it was 56 degrees yesterday and I stayed in my pajamas all day.
It was too cold outside :)



Her day job was as an animation supervisor at Disney where she worked on Sleeping Beauty and Cinderella.

Eve says "The greatest thing about surfing is that you learn so much about the ocean, the birds, the porpoises. You forget all your problems. You love everyone." I could not agree more!

xoxo Eve. You ROCK!

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